From major film studios and ballet companies to the university classroom, a UCLA alumnus fosters inclusivity and community through costuming and illustration.
For Elle Erickson, costume is more than clothing. The designer said exploring themes of feminism and queer identity is important to her work, adding that she seeks out finer details that relate to identity and incorporates them into her designs.
“It always starts with really immersing yourself in whatever the world of the show is – whether that’s a specific time period or subculture, different identities,” Erickson said. “I first like to build the world in my mind, then I’ll get more into the logistics.”
Erickson said her background in visual arts allows her to see the stage picture as a painting, as she approaches her costume design process by observing the overall composition and color theory.
The costume designer said her parents supported an upbringing in theater and painting. She began participating in theatrical productions when she was eight years old, she added. When she applied to the School of the Art Institute of Chicago (SAIC), she submitted a painting portfolio.
But after a few months into her painting program, she said she realized she missed theater and decided to go back to her roots in a new way.
“I realized that (theater) was not an art form that I could just turn away from after so long,” Erikson said. “It wasn’t necessarily acting that I fell in love with – it was the art of theater.”
She said costuming felt like an opportunity to put her painting and drawing skills to use while continuing to be a part of the theater community.
The costumer said she enjoys the research phase of her work, which involves developing mood boards for her designs and illustrations. She added that she keeps an open mind throughout the costuming process as change is inevitable and can be positive.
“We’re always on the hunt for the best idea, so I don’t get too attached to anything,” Erickson said.
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Erickson’s illustrations are a way for her to visually convey her ideas, she said. She added that she intentionally develops the faces of her drawings to focus on their expression and help sell her ideas to collaborators. Erickson said she finds allowing the cast to see themselves in her illustrations helpful to her process.
Claire Lyons, Erickson’s friend and colleague, said the two met in undergrad at SAIC. She added that Erickson helped her when she felt overwhelmed while she was learning to illustrate.
“I had taken a class with Elle and, of course, I had the professor that would show us different techniques, but Elle could just really capture them,” Lyons said.
Since becoming friends, Lyons said the two have collaborated numerous times, with Erickson even being a model for one of Lyons’ collections.
Erickson said she is intentional with the final stages of her costuming – fittings and dress rehearsals. While she feels excited to see her designs come to life, she said maintaining sensitivity toward costume measurements is important in making actors feel comfortable.
“Numbers that we use in costuming are just tools – there’s no good or bad measurement,” Erickson said. “Every body is a Broadway body, and I think that costume has taken a turn toward that, which I think is amazing, and I can tell actors are feeling it.”
After graduating from UCLA TFT’s Costume Design program in 2024, Erickson continued pursuing costume design and illustration for theatrical productions, gravitating toward the collaborative element of theater. During her time at UCLA, she designed costumes for two department productions and received three awards for her designs, including the 2024 UCLA Alumni Award for Excellence in Costume Design.
Through UCLA’s Costume Design program, Erickson said she had the opportunity to work alongside costuming industry legends such as Titanic designer Deborah Scott and Kym Barrett, who is best known for her designs on “The Matrix.” She said her success beyond UCLA can be attributed to the connections she made through the program, including receiving her first job offer from Universal Studios after her final design showcase.
Now, Erickson said she is stepping into a full-time role as Worcester State University’s costume manager and designer for its upcoming season, while mentoring budding costume designers along the way.
Chrisi Karvonides, head of UCLA’s B.A. and MFA Costume Design programs and Erickson’s mentor said Erickson was a highlight of their summer institute programs, where she taught design principles to 20 high school-aged students.
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“She made them all feel that they could visually express themselves and avoid the anxiety and the fear that they can’t draw human beings,” Karvonides said. “She makes them so comfortable.”
Erickson said teaching is part of the artistic practice she has cultivated through costume design and illustration. She said teaching makes her a better designer and invigorates her passion for the art form.
“This can be a really draining industry, and you can experience burnout,” Erickson said. “Bringing new people in and reminding myself why what I do is so cool.”
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